Book IX, chapters 1–10: Adorning women and making them beautiful

THE NINTH BOOK OF Natural Magick: How to adorn Women, and make them Beautiful.

THE PROEME.

SInce next to the Art of Physick, follows the Art of Adorning our selves, we shall set down the Art of Painting; and how to beautifie Women from Head to Foot, in many Experiments: yet lest any man should think it superfluous, to interpose those things that belong to the Ornaments of Women, I would have them consider, that I did not write these things for to give occasion to augment Luxury, and for to make people voluptuous. But when God, the Author of all things, would have the Natures of all things to continue, he created Male and Female, that by fruitful Procreation, they might never want Children: and to make Man in love with his Wife, he made her soft, delicate and fair, to entice man to embrace her. We therefore, that Women might be pleasing to their Husbands, and that their Husbands might not be offended at their deformities, and turn into other womens-chambers, have taught Women, how, by the Art of Decking themselves and Painting, if they be ashamed of their foul and swart Complexions, they may make themselves Fair and Beautiful. Somethings that seemed best to me in the Writings of the antients, I have tried, and set down here: but those that are the best, which I and others have of late invented, and were never before in Print, I shall set down last. And first I shall begin with the Hairs.

CHAP. I.

How the Hair may be dyed Yellow, or Gold-colour.

SInce it is the singular care of Women to adorn their Hair, and next their Faces; First, I will shew you to adorn the Hair, and next the Countenance. For Women hold the Hair to be the greatest Ornament of the Body; that if that be taken away, all the Beauty is gone: and they think it the more beautiful, the more yellow, shining and radiant it is. We shall consider what things are fit for that purpose; what are the most yellow things, and will not hurt the Head, as there are many that will: but we shall chuse such things as will do it good. But before you dye them,

Preparing of the Hair

must be used, to make them fit to receive a tincture. Add to the Lees of White-wine as much Honey that they may be soft, and like some thin matter: smeer your Hair with this, let it be wet all night: then bruise the Roots of Celandine, and of the greater Clivers Madder, of each a like quality: mingle them, being bruised, very well with Oyl, wherein Cummin-Seed, Shavings of Box, and a little Saffron, are mingled; anoynt your Head, and let it abide so twenty four hours: then wash it with Lye made of Cabbage-Stalks, Ashes, and Barley-Straw: but Rye-Straw is the best: for this, as Women have often proved, will make the Hair a bright yellow. But you shall make

A Lye to dye the Hair

thus: Put Barley-Straw into an Earthen-pot with a great mouth, Feny-Graec, and wilde Cummin; mingle between them, Quick-lime and Tobacco, made into Powder: then put them upon the Straw beforementioned, and pour on the Powders again; I mean by course, one under, the other over, till the whole Vessel be full: and when they are thrust close, pour on cold water, and let them so stand a whole day: then open a hole at the bottom, and let the Lye run forth, and with Sope use it for your Hair. I shall teach you

Another.

To five Glasses of Fountain-water, add Alume-Foeces, one Ounce; Sope, three Ounces; Barley-Straw, one Handful: let them boyl in Earthen-pots, till two thirds be boyled away: then let it settle: strain the Water with the Ashes; adding to every Glass of Water, pure Honey one Ounce. Set it up for your use. You shall prepare for your Hair

An Oyntment

thus: Burn the Foeces of Wine, heaped up in a Pit, as the manner is; so that the fire may go round the Pit: when it is burnt, pown it, and seirce it: mingle it well with Oyl: let the Woman anoynt her Head with it when she goes to Bed; and in the morning, let her wash it off with a Lye, wherein the most bitter Lupines were boyled. Other Women endeavour

To make their Hair yellow

thus: They put into a common Lye, the Pills of Citrons, Oranges, Quinces, Barley-Straw, dried Lupines, Foeny-Graec, Broom-Flowers, and Tartat coloured, a good quantity: and they let them there lie and steep, to wash their Hair with. Others mingle two parts Sope, to one part Honey; adding Ox-Gall one half part: to which they mingle a twelfth part of Garden-Cummin, and wilde Saffron: and setting them in the Sun for six weeks, they stir it daily with a wooden-staff: and this they use. Also of Vinegar and Gold Litharge, there is made a decoction very good to dye the Hair yellow as Gold. Some there are, that draw out a strong VVater with fire, out of Salt-Peter, Vitriol, Salt-Ammoniac, and Cinaber; wherewith the Hairs dyed, will be presently yellow: but this as wont to burn the Hair: those that know how to mingle it, will have good effects of it. But these are but ordinary; the most famous way is

To make the Hairs yellow:

draw Oyl from Honey by the Art of Distillation, as we shall shew: First, there will come forth a clear VVater, then a Saffron-colour, then a Gold-colour: use this to anoynt the Hair with a Spunge; but let it touch the Skin: for it will dye it Saffron-colour, and it is not easily washed off. This is the principal above others, because the Tincture will last many dayes: and it will dye Gray-Hairs, which few others will. Or make a Lye of Oak-Ashes, put in the quantity of a Bean of Rheubarb, as much Tobacco, a handful of Barley-Straw and Foeny-Graec. Shells of Oranges, the Raspings of Guaiacum, a good deal of wilde Saffron and Liquorish: put all these in an Earthen-pot, and boyl them, till the water sink three fingers: the Hairs will be washt excellently with this. Hold them in the Sun, then cast Brimstone on the Coals, and fume the Hairs; and whilst it burns, receive the smoke with a little Tunnel at the bottom, and cover your Head all over with a cloth, that the smoke flie not away.

CHAP. II.

How to dye the Hair bed.

BEcause there are many men and women that are ruddy Complexions, and have the Hair of their Heads and Bearbs Red; which, should they make yellow-coloured, they would not agree with their Complexions: To help those also, I set down these Remedies: The Ancients used the decoction of the Lote-Tree raspt, which we call Melo Fiocco: and so they made their Hair Red. Or else, by burning me Foeces of the old Wine, as I said, they added Oyl of mastick thereto, which they provided thus to the purpose. They heaped up the ripe Berries of the Mastick-Tree for some dayes, till they might wither: the they poured on water, and boyled them so long in Brazen Kettles until they brake: they put them in Bags, and pressed out the Oyl with a press. With this Oyntment, they kept their Head anoynted all the night, and so made them Red. But how we may

Dye the Hair Red

I shall teach you. There is a Powder brought to us from Africa, they commonly call Alchena: if we boyl it in a Lye till it be coloured, and anoynt our Hair with it, it will dye them red for many days, that is indelible: but whilst you handle it, take heed you wet no your Nails therewith: for they will be so died, you cannot easily make them clean. So also we dye the Tails and Mains of white Horses red. But I can easily do it with Oyl of Honey; for when the clear and Saffron-coloured waters are drawn off, increase the fire, and the Oyl will come forth, the red. This is exellent to make the Hairs red, and it will dye white Hairs red for many dayes; and when that tincture is worn off, the Hairs will shine of a golden colour. But when we anoynt our Heads with a Lye, we take a wet sponge with nippers, that we may not stain our Hands or skin of our Heads.

With Herbs a woman dy'd her hoary Head:
Arts Colours better'd Natures, as 'tis said.

CHAP. III.

How the Hairs are dyed Black.

IT is worth the while, to shew such as are ashamed to seem old, how to dye their hoary Hairs black, as if they might grow young again by it. And if we provide for young women, we must do as much for aged Matrons; especially, if it fall out that they grow hoary too soon. Of old, they made a decoction of Sage-Leaves, the green Husks of Walnuts, Sumacts, Myrtle-berries, Black-berries, Cypress-nuts, Rindes of the Roots of Halm-Tree, and such-like: for the Rinde of the Root of Halm-Tree, boyled till it be sort, and consumed, and then smeered on all night, blacks the Hair, first made clean with Fullers Earth. Learn therefore

How Gray Hairs and dyed Black.

Anoynt your Hair in the Sun with Leeches that have lain to corrupt in the blackest Wine sixty daies, and they will become very black. Or else, Let a sextary of Leeches stand in two sextaries of Vinegar in a Leaden Vessel to corrupt, for sixty daies: and as I said, anoynt your Hair. Pliny saith, It will dye so strongly that unless they hold Ovl in their mouths, when they dye the Hair, it will make their Teeth black also. But if you would have

Long and Black Hair,

Take a green Lizard, and cutting off the Head and Tail, boyl it in common Oyl, and anoynt your Head with it. You shall have also

Another.

Yet you may thus dye your Hair and Beard handsomely, if they be grown Gray: Froth of Silver, burnt Brass, must be mingled with four times the quantity of strong Lye: and when it bubbles on an easie fire, wash your Hair with it; and when they are dry, wash them with hot water. I used this as the Ancients taught it: and I made a Lye of Quick-Lime and Oak-Ashes, that they commonly call the Capitel; in that I boyled Litharge of Silver: then I tried it on white Wool; for if it be dyed black, as I would have it, then I took it from the fire; or else, I boyled it longer. If it burnt the Wool, I put water to it; or else, dyed with it. Add Lytharge. Wash your Hair or Beard with this, and it will dye them with a shining black colour, and it will not be discerned: for the more you wash it, the better it will shine.

CHAP. IV.

To make Hairs part smooth.

BEcause sometimes a part is deformed with abundance of Hair, or for lack of Hair, I shall shew how to make a smooth part thick with Hair, and a hairy part smooth, by depilatories.

A common Depilatory,

which men use commonly in Baths. It consists of Quick-Lime, four parts made into Powder, Orpiment one part: boyl them. Try with a Hens Feather; when that is made bare with it, it is boyl'd: take heed you boyl it not too much, or that it stay not too long upon your skin, for it will burn: but if it chance to burn your skin, take Populeum and Oyl of Roses or Violets, and anoynt the place, and the pain will be gone. This must be done in a Bath; but if you cannot have one, let the Woman be covered with cloths very well, and let it be cast on burning Stones or Tiles, that she may receive the fume of it, and swear. After she hath sweat, let her wash her self with her water, and wipe it off: then let her anoynt her self all over; for the parts anoynted thus, will presently grow smooth. And thus may all parts be kept free from Hair. The Ancients used these, as Saserna, as Varro reports, teacheth in his Book of Husbandry. If (saith he) you would make any one smooth from Hair, cast a pale Frog into water, and boyl it to a third part; and with that anoynt the Body. But by pale Frog we must understand a Toad: for a Frog hath no such faculty. A Salamander soaked in Oyl, will pull out the Hair. Dioscorides. But it will be stronger, if you steep it long in Oyl, and dissolve it. The filthy matter that is white as Milk, and is vomited up at the mouth by the Salamander, if it touch any part of the Body, all the Hair will fall off. Dioscorides saith, That the Sea-Scolopendra boyled in Oyl, and smeered on the part, will pluck off the Hair by the Roots. But

To make Hair grow slowly,

If you press Oyl out of Henbane-Seed with a Press, or do often anoynt the places with the juice of it, they will grow again very slowly. The same is done with the juice of Hemlock. Or to take off the Hairs, men added to Ants Eggs, red Orpiment, and Ivy-Gum, with Vinegar; and they rubbed the place where the Hair was taken away. In former times, they rubbed the down-parts of children with the Roots of Hyacinthus, and the Hair would never grow there. And therefore it is well known in trimming Medicaments sold here and there, that being smeered on with sweet Wine, keeps back the Bread, and will not let it break forth. But if you would

That Hair should never grow again,

In which business I have taken great pains; and tried many things that I found to be false; First, foment the part with hot water, and pull out the Hairs one by one with womens nippers: then dissolve Salt-Peter in water, and anonynt the holes where the Hairs grew. It will be better done with Oyl of Brimstone, or of Vitriol: and so they will never grow again; or if they do, after one yeer, they will be very soft: do then the same again, and the parts will be bare alwayes. So I have made womens Fore-heads longer, and have taken off Hair from parts hotter then the rest.

CHAP. V.

How Hair may grow again.

BUt for those that would have Hair grow where it should, these Remedies will do it: sometimes womens temples use to be deformed for want of Hair, I shall teach you how

Hair falling off before old age, may be held fast.

And if any Hair hath fallen off, to make it grow again, torrifie Gith upon the Coals; when it is torrified, powder it, sift it, and mingle it with water; and anoynt your Head. The Ancients made their Hair grow again with these Remedies: with the Ashes of a Land Hedge-hog, or of burnt Bees or Flies, or the Powder of them deied; also with Man's Dung burnt, and anoynted on with Honey, to which they added well the Ashes of Small-nuts, Wall-nuts, Ches-nuts, and other Bean-like substances: for by all these mingled together, or by them single, Hair will be made to grow. But if you will

That Hair shall grow quickly,

I know that by often washing the place with that water that first distils from Honey by the fire, much Hair will soon grow; or if you do but moysten the place with wet cloths, and not wipe it, but let it alwayes continue wet. Also Noble Matrons may use this

To make the Hairs grow softer.

Augustus was wont to burn his Legs with a burning Nut, that the Hair might grow softer. But

That Hair may grow longer and quickly,

Bruise Marsh-Mallow Roots with Hogs-grease, and let them boyl long in Wine: then add Cummin-Seed well bruised, Mastick, and yelks of Eggs well boyled: first, mingle them a little, and then boyl them: strain all through a Linen-clout, and let it stand and settle; then take the fat that swims on the top and anoynt the Head, first wash. But to make them grow quickly, take Barley-Bread with Salt and Bears Grease: burn the Bread; and with such a mixture anoynt the place. Some besmeer a glazed Pot with the fat of a Horse Neck, and they boyl a River-Eel that is fat, and cut into pieces in it, till it dissolve into Oyl, and they anoynt the part with it.

CHAP. VI.

To take away Sores and Worms that spoil the Hair.

THere is a certain plague of the Hair that befals them, and breaks, cuts, and takes the Hair quite off from the Head. I will add the Remedies presently, whereby to take them away. It is healthful, in these Diseases, to apply bitter things to kill these Worms called Tiners or Syrens: take the Flowers of Myrtle-Trees, Broom-clary; boyl them in Vinegar, till the Vinegar be consumed, and then rub the ends of the Hair continually with it. Also grinde bitter Lupines into fine Meal; boyl them in Vinegar, and then rub the Hairs between your hands: for this will kill these Sirens, and drive them away. But I used very hot Bread, newly taken forth of the Oven, cut in the middle, and putting the Hair between them till they grow […]old.

CHAP. VII.

How to make Hair Curl.

CUrl'd Hair seems to be no small Grace and Ornament to the Head: and women that use painting do all they can to curl the Hair. If you will know how

To Curl the Hair,

Boyl Maidenhair with Smallage-Seed in Wine, adding a good quantity of Oyl: for this wil make the Hair curl'd and thick. Pliny. Moreover, if you put the Roots of Daffidils into Wine, and pour this often on the Head, being shaved, it will make the Hair curl the more, as the same Author saith: or else, bruise the Root of Dwraf-elder, with Oyl, and anoynt the Head therewith, and binde the Leaves of the same upon the Head. Some say that Camels Dung will curl the Hair: or else, poun the Ashes of a Rams Horn, with Oyl; and with that anoynt the Head often, being first shaved. So also, will the Ashes of Chef-nuts or Hedge-hogs do, if you with Honey smeer the Head with it.

CHAP. VIII.

Remedies to make the Eye brows black.

BEfore we leave off to speak of Hair, I shall shew how to make the Eye-brows black, because women are as desirous of this as of the rest. The Greeks call them Calliblephara, that is, Fair Eye-brows: wherefore the Antients used

To dye the Eye-brows

with black Earth like Bitume or Sea-Cole: being burnt, it is a very fine black: and it is added to those Remedies that serve to dye the Eye-brows and the Hair black: or else the Marrow of an Ox bone taken out of the Right-Leg before, and beaten with Soot, is good to dye the Hair, and faulty Eye-brows, and the corners of the Eyes. Also, Soot is tempered for this purpose, with the smoak of Paper, and Oyl of Sesama, the smoot being wiped off of a new Vessel with a Feather. The Kernels of Dates burnt in a new earthen Pot, and the Ashes washed, serve instead of Spodium; and they are mingled with Eye-salves, and they make Calliblephara; adding Spikenard thereunto. And if they be not well burnt, burn them again. Also Rose-Leaves are fit burn for the same use. Also, you may amend your Eye-brows thus; Take Labdanum, and beat it with Wine, and mingle Oyl of Myrtles with it, and make a very thick Oyntment: or infuse in Oyl the black Leaves of the Myrtle-Tree, with a double quantity of Galls bruised, and use that. I use this. Galls are fried in Oyl, and they are ground with a little Salt-Ammoniac; and then mingled with Vinegar, wherein the Pills of the Mulberry and Bramble have been boyled: with these anoynt the Eyebrows, and let it abide on all night; then wash it off with water. But if you would

Change the colour of childrens Eyes,

you shall do it thus: anoynt the fore part of their Heads with the Ashes of the shells of Hazel-nuts and Oyl, it will make the white eyes of children black, if you do it twice. There are many Experiments to make white and gray Eyes black, and to alter the colours. But I shall let them pass, because those that want them will not so lightly endanger their Eyes; nor do they answer the expectation, as some have tried them.

CHAP. IX.

How to make the Face white.

I Taught formerly in my Book of Plants, That with white cleer Silver-coloured Herbs, Shel-Fish, and Stones, the Face might be made white, polished and Silver-coloured. I shall now set down some examples, by which you may invent many more. I shall first speak of Simples, then of Compounds: Simples that are white, make the face white. The Lilly is a complete white colour: the bulbous tops of it, like Onyons boyled in water, or the distilled water of them, will make the Faces of Maides white, if they wash them therewith, morning and evening. Withwind bears a Flower like to the Lilly, without any smell; but within like Saffron: it is onely white, and is as it were the Rudiments of Nature, when she goes about to frame a Lilly. The distilled water from the flowers will wonderfully make the Face whole. Also with the decoction of Ivory, one may make the Face like Ivory. Melanthinm makes the Face beautiful. Dioscorides. But it shews its excellency when it is thus prepared: Pown it, and sift out the finest of it, take the juice of Lemmons, and let the Meal of Gith lie wet in it twenty four hours; take it out, and let it dry: then break an Egg with the Shell, and mingle it with it: then dry it in the shade, and sift it once more. In the morning, when the woman riseth out of her bed, let her put this into a white Linen-clour, that is not too fine, and wet it with water or spittle; and let her rub her Face with the clour, that the moysture alone, and not the Meal, may come on the Face. If you will have

Your Face white,

it may be made as white as Milk many ways, and chiefly with these that follow: Let Litharge of Silver, half an ounce, boyl in a Glazed Earthen Pot, with strong Vinegar, until the thinner part be evaporated: set it up for use. Then, in another Pot, let half a pound of clear water boyl: then mingle both these waters together, and shake them; and it will become like Milk, and sink to the bottom: when it is settled, pour it off; water being plentifully poured in: and leaving it a while to settle, pour it off again, and pour on fresh; shake it, and leave it to settle a short time, and so forbear. That which is settled, set in the Sun and when it is grown stiff, as thick pap, make small balls of it, and lay them up. You may use these with water to make the Face white. Or else powder Lytharge of Silver, eight ounces, very fine: pour on the Powder, of the strongest Vinegar five pints: distil them, and keep them for your use. Then take Allome de Plume, Salt Gemma, one drachm; Frankincense, one ounce and a half; Camphire, two drachms; Oyl of Tartar, six ounces; Rose-water, one pound: powder what must be powdered, and pour it in: distil the water in Chymical Vessel, and set it up. When you would use them, mingle a little of both waters in the palm of your hand, and it will be like Milk: rub your Face with it, and it will be white. Or else take off the Pills of about twenty Cirton Lemmons; infuse the Pills in one pound of the best Wine, and one pint and an half of Rose-water, for six days: then add one ounce of white Lilly and Mallow-Roots, and let them stay as many days: then add Rosin of Turpentine, four ounces; white Mercury sublimate, two ounces; Boxan, half an ounce; ten whites of Eggs made hard at the fire: and mingle all these together: let them stay one night. The next day, put a cap upon the Vessel, and luting the joynts well, that nothing may breath forth, let the water drop into a Vessel to receive it: set it aside for use. I me this, that is easie to make, and doth the business completely: Take the white of an Egg, and stir it so long with an Iron, that it froth well: let it stand to turn to water: then take half an ounce of the best Honey, and beat with that water, and […]ingle them until they unite: add to them the quantity of two Corns of Wheat, Mercury sublimate, finely powdered; when you go to bed, take some of the water in the palm of your hand, and wash your Face; and so let it dry in, that it may not slick to the Linen: in the morning, wash it off with Fountain-water, and you shall have your Face cleer and white.

CHAP. X.

How women shall make their Faces very clean to receive the Colour.

BEfore any thing be used to make the Face beautiful, it must be made very clean and fit to receive it: for oft-times women have excellent Waters and Remedies brought them, but they have no operation: wherefore the matter is, that they must first prepare their Face. This is the best

Preparation of the Face.

Bind Barley-Meal-Bran in a Linen-cloth, and let it down into a Pot full of water, and let it boyl till a third part be remaining, and press out the juice: with this decoction wash your face, and let it dry: then bruise Myrrh, and mingle it with the white of an Egg, and burn it on hot Fire-sticks, or red hot Tiles, and receive the fume by a tunnel: let the narrow part of it be toward the Face, and the broad to the fire: cover the head with a Napkin that the smoak flie not away; and when you have received sufficient of the smoak, rub your Face with a Linen-cloth: then use your Remedy to anoynt your Face. I shall shew you

One that is stronger.

When the skin must be cleansed or made white, you must cleanse some parts of your Face from skins that will not let your painting Oyntment stick. Powder an ounce of Sublimate very finely: put it into a Pot that is glazed, and cast into it fix whites of Eggs, so beaten, that they are turned into water: then boyl them on hot Embers, till they grow thick: put them into a Linnen-cloth that is loosly weaved, and press the water out of them with your hands, and wash your Face with it: then mingle Honey, whites of Eggs, and the aforesaid water together, equal parts: put some in your palm, and rub the place you would make white, with the palms of your hands: then boyl spelt; and when it is boyl'd, take the fume of it by a tunnel: then rub your Face with a course Linnen-cloth. Others wash their Face with water, wherein fine flour is boyled.